False glue blocks, for a period look, without the period problems.

I want to have my reproductions faithful to the originals, inside and out; the problem with this is, doing so often requires joinery techniques that make the modern craftsman cringe. Period craftsmen seemed unconcerned with the potential for shrinkage and often fastened table tops to the aprons with glue blocks. The result was a top that cracked or became loose. This technique isn’t limited to rural or unsophisticated cabinetmakers; even a vaunted Goddard-Townsend tea table selling for several million dollars has its top attached in this manner.

So I can maintain the period look and still have an attachment method that holds the top firmly, yet allows for expansion and contraction, I have been using modern steel table clips concealed with a false glue block. I bought the clips from Constantine’s (part number 96N4). Some modifications to the clips are necessary before use. I saw tongue that will be covered by the glue block, to limit of the size of glue block require to conceal the clip. Depending on the thickness of the apron, I sometimes have to shorten the other tongue. Even if that other tongue doesn’t have to be shortened, I use a file to remove any burrs, so it can slide easily as the top moves.

The clip fits into a slot cut in the apron with a biscuit joiner. I’m careful to set the position of the slot so the clip fits snugly but without binding.

The glue block is just a short square section of secondary wood with one chamfered edge. With a 1 1/8” diameter  Forstner bit drill out a pocket for the clip. Be careful how deeply you drill this hole, so that it doesn’t burst through the chamfer. Depending on the dimension of the glue block, you may have to do a little extra trimming with a knife to provide clearance for the angled portion of the clip.

Use a pan head sheet metal screw to attach the clip to the top and with a dab of hot hide glue on the apron side of the glue block only, rub it in (many period pieces have the area where the glue blocks go, scored with a toothing plane). You’re left with a perfectly period looking attachment, but with none of the problems. While the tops were attached with a series of closely spaces glue blocks, I only put the clips in as many locations as required to keep the top flat. The remainder of the glue blocks are just blocks without the drilled recess.

The following photos show, from left to right (click on any photo to see larger version)

The clips, the upper one is as it comes from the factory, the lower is after being sawn and filed.

The clip in place and the glue block with the drilled recess.

The glue block in place.